Cushing Acid Dyes are suitable for wool, mohair, nylon and SOME silks (Jacquard Acid
or Lanaset are a surer bet for silk). They are not intended for cotton or other
cellulosic fibers. The term acid refers to the pH of the dye bath.
Material to be dyed should be pre-washed with a mild detergent, and should be wet
through when it goes into the dye-bath.
Dissolve the dye powder in a small amount of boiling water; this is the dye solution.
A pack of dye will dye a pound of fiber to a medium shade.
The dye-bath consists of water, vinegar, water softener if the water is hard, and the
dye solution.
You will need a big enough dye-pot, and enough water, for your material to move
freely. Otherwise it will not dye evenly. Add a cup of common white vinegar per pound
of material to make the dye-bath acid. If your water is hard, fabric softener can aid
the dyeing process by allowing better penetration of the dye into the fiber. Finally,
add the dye solution and stir thoroughly.
Enter the pre-washed and wetted material and start to heat. Continue to stir as the
dye-pot comes to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 30 to 40 minutes.
The dye-bath will become clearer as it is exhausted; that is, as the color is taken
up into the goods. Different colors take up at different rates. For example, blue
takes up faster, and at lower temperatures, than yellow. So a green dye, made up of
blue and yellow, will start out by turning the fiber mostly blue. The yellow will
develop later, making green. If the goods are removed prematurely, uneven or
off-shade (in this case excessively blue) dyeing may result. It is important to let
the dye-bath simmer till take up is complete.
After the dye-bath is exhausted, remove the pot from the heat and allow everything to
come to room temperature. Rinse the material well in cold water and allow to dry.